Dutch Design brand O My Bag chooses fair trade production in India:
'They deliver sustainable products of good quality'
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Founder Paulien Wesselink is having great success with her trendy bag label O My Bag. The leather bags are Fair Trade produced in Calcutta, India and sold in more than 25 countries worldwide. “In India I found producers who do not only deliver good quality, but are also Fair Trade certified.”
Things are going well for Amsterdam bag label O My Bag. Founded in 2011 by Paulien Wesselink, the bag brand sells sustainable designer bags at 285 points of sale in 27 countries. In 2022, O My Bag had a turnover of 3.2 million euros. “Our goal is to be an internationally renowned, sustainable bag brand.”
‘It is a huge advantage that Indian producers speak English’
But this success did not come easy to O My Bag, says Wesselink, who has just returned from her six-monthly working visit to India. In 2010, the recently graduated entrepreneur boarded a plane to India and Indonesia with the idea of producing high-quality leather bags under decent working conditions and without the use of toxic chemicals. In seven weeks, she visited thirty producers and tanneries and made useful contacts. Wesselink: “In India, it clicked: I had a good feeling about the people, much more than in Indonesia. I had initially thought about China, but that seemed much more difficult because of the language. The fact that Indians speak English is a huge advantage.”
Fair Trade production in India
During that first working trip to India, Wesselink did not yet find a good producer. Because she wanted to do business responsibly, she turned to the World Fair Trade Organization. This is how the Amsterdam native found a Fair Trade certified producer just outside Calcutta. Communication via email from the Netherlands proved difficult. Despite her efforts to make it clear what the bags should look like, the samples that Wesselink received in Amsterdam did not meet expectations.
“Conclusion: I have to go back there.” Determined to return with a completed first collection, Wesselink boarded a plane to Calcutta. Together with the supplier, she worked continuously on the first four models for a month. “That is not only essential for yourself as a client because it gives you insight into the working method, but also to build a good relationship with the people who make your product. What is crucial in India.”
Have Fair Trade production in India checked for quality
Just before the launch of the brand, during Amsterdam Fashion Week, Wesselink received the first bag collection. “In retrospect, the quality of that first collection was not great,” Wesselink admits. “Almost half of all zippers broke quickly. Fortunately, we were able to quickly help those customers with improved new bags.” Since communication also remained difficult, she continued to look for new producers. O My Bag now works with four other production partners, who are both larger and more professional.
To prevent the quality from being substandard, O My Bag has been hiring independent quality controllers since last year who check the leather before the bags are made, and check the finished bags before they are shipped to Europe. “This way we guarantee that our bags are of top quality,” says Wesselink. In the future, she may want to invest in her own factory, but it is still too early for that. “If we continue to grow quickly, I do not rule out that we will take that step in the coming years.”
Tips for Successful Manufacturing in India
Deepmala Datta, Consultant Market Expansion at IndiaConnected, says there are quality options available for any company looking to source from India. Whether you’re in textiles, medical or automotive, India has something to offer every sector. “The key to successful sourcing is to have the courage to seek the help of a local partner who can find the perfect supplier for you,” says Deepmala. “India is a very large market and if you don’t know what to look for, you can easily end up with the wrong option, like O My Bag did.”
“You need to understand which Indian state or city has the most expertise in your sector or specific product,” explains Deepmala. “For international companies, with little experience in India, it’s difficult to get that good overview of the market and to figure out where the production clusters for your segment are. That’s why a local consultant plays such an important role in this process; He or she can not only do the research for you, but also pre-select the right suppliers based on key criteria such as experience and expertise.”
“The mistake we see many companies make is choosing the first supplier they come across without doing due diligence or testing. Finding a quality supplier takes time, because you need to give them the opportunity to study and develop your product or component,” says Deepmala. “That process will definitely take 6 months or more. Having a local representative who can do follow-ups, visit the site, and take over time-consuming processes will not only speed up this process, but will also ensure that your company gets the high-quality solution it is looking for.”